Measuring Up: A Practical Guide to Dressing Bay and Period Windows in Midhurst

Bay windows are one of the defining features of Midhurst and the surrounding villages, yet they are rarely straightforward to dress. A canted bay in a Victorian villa, a shallow square bay in a later house and a low cottage window with uneven plaster all present different problems. The fabric is only one part of the decision. Geometry, fixing method, lining and the way the curtains are dressed matter just as much, particularly where period character is to be preserved rather than concealed.

Begin with the window, not the fabric

A successful made-to-measure curtain begins with a proper survey. Before considering colour or pattern, establish the type of window and the constraints around it. Is the bay canted, square or bowed? Are the windows sash, casement or fixed? Are there internal shutters, deep reveals, radiators, window handles or furniture that will interfere with the curtains? In older Midhurst properties, walls are seldom perfectly plumb and ceilings are not always level, so assumptions based on a single width measurement are unwise.

Record the position of any picture rail, cornice or ceiling rose, as these affect track and pole placement. Note the depth of the reveal and whether the curtains are to hang inside it or across the face of the wall. For cottage windows, check head height carefully; a deep heading or a large pattern repeat can make a small room feel compressed. For sash windows, confirm that the curtains will not obstruct the sash cords or prevent the lower sash from being raised.

Measuring bay windows without guesswork

Measure each face of the bay separately. Do not measure the overall width and divide it by the number of sections, because bays are frequently asymmetrical. Take measurements at the proposed track or pole height, at mid-window and near the sill, then use the narrowest figure for the curtain drop and the widest for width where appropriate. Measure the returns to the wall, the angle of each corner and the distance from the fixing point to the floor or sill.

Fullness should be calculated from the finished track or pole width, not from the window glass. For most curtains, two to two and a half times fullness gives a generous but controlled appearance; heavier fabrics may need slightly less, while sheer or lightweight fabrics may need more. Add allowance for overlap at the centre and for returns at each end. If a large pattern repeat is chosen, allow for matching at seams and at the leading edges. Floor clearance should be agreed in advance: a slight break above the floor is practical, while a longer drop may suit a formal room but can mark on hard floors.

For awkward angles, a simple paper template of the bay can be more reliable than a series of figures. Note the position of any radiators so that curtains do not sit over heat sources for long periods. Finally, record everything in a single survey sheet, including the datum point from which each measurement was taken.

Tracks, poles and the question of bends

In a bay window, the fixing method often determines the success of the scheme. A bendable curtain track is usually the most practical choice for a canted bay, particularly where a smooth curve is required. Tracks can be ceiling-fixed or face-fixed, corded or hand-operated, and the choice should reflect the height of the window and the amount of daily use. A ceiling-fixed track can make a room feel taller, but it must be securely fixed into a sound lintel or batten.

Poles suit period interiors and can look elegant in a square bay, but they require care. A standard pole cannot negotiate a sharp angle without brackets and returns, and specialist bay poles are often needed. Poles should be positioned so that the curtains clear window handles and shutters, and brackets should be strong enough for the weight of interlined fabric. Avoid placing a pole so far forward that the curtains appear to float away from the window, as this can make a small bay feel cramped.

Linings and period character

The lining is not a hidden extra; it affects drape, insulation, privacy and longevity. A standard cotton or cotton-polyester lining is suitable for many rooms, while a thermal lining can help reduce draughts around sash windows. Blackout lining is useful in bedrooms but should be specified carefully where a softer, more natural look is wanted. Interlining adds body and warmth, and is often the most appropriate choice for formal reception rooms and older properties where curtains are expected to hang well.

In period homes, heavy triple-layered curtains can overwhelm modest window openings. A well-made interlined curtain in a calm fabric often preserves character better than a complex heading with swags and tails. Consider ventilation and condensation, particularly in bedrooms and bathrooms; curtains should not be pressed tightly against cold glass for long periods. Where shutters exist, curtains should be designed to sit clear of them so that both elements can be used.

Styling that respects the room

A bay window is already a strong architectural feature. Styling should support it rather than compete with it. Simple pencil pleat, pinch pleat or wave headings generally work well, and a single fabric across the bay can create a cohesive look. Contrasting linings or a subtle trim can add interest without clutter. Tiebacks should be used sparingly; in small bays they can pull curtains into the room and obstruct light.

Colour should be considered in relation to the whole room, not only the window. In north-facing rooms, warmer tones and textured weaves can soften the light. In bright south-facing rooms, faded or unstable colours should be avoided unless the fabric is suitable for exposure. Above all, the finished curtains should be allowed to hang and settle before final dressing. A careful installation, with securely fixed tracks and correctly weighted hems, will do more for the appearance of a bay window than any decorative shortcut.